THE SWELL RISES
It was 1997. I'd decided to leave film school and use my student loan to buy a camera and plane ticket to South Africa.
It was the begining of wewalk. I'd been invited to stay with Andrew Carter in Jeffreys Bay. I had interviewed him a few years previously about his experience of being attacked by a shark. A near death experience that claimed the life of a fellow surfer Bruce, during the same attack (rare).
I had become transfixed with the facet Andrew still surfs. What is it about surfing that would override such an horrific experience?
It was the begining of wewalk. I'd been invited to stay with Andrew Carter in Jeffreys Bay. I had interviewed him a few years previously about his experience of being attacked by a shark. A near death experience that claimed the life of a fellow surfer Bruce, during the same attack (rare).
I had become transfixed with the facet Andrew still surfs. What is it about surfing that would override such an horrific experience?