THE SWELL RISES

It was 1997. I’d decided to leave film school and use my student loan to buy a camera and plane ticket to South Africa.

It was the begining of wewalk. I’d been invited to stay with Andrew Carter in Jeffreys Bay. I had interviewed him a few years previously about his experience of being attacked by a shark. A near death experience that claimed the life of a fellow surfer Bruce, during the same attack (rare).

I had become transfixed with the facet Andrew still surfs. What is it about surfing that would override such an horrific experience?